GLACIERS & CREVASSES: PART ZWEI! (Solo retrievable loop-systems)

Whereas the first offering in "Blog-1" could be considered when making a crossing alone when time is limited, this second series of techniques could be useful when a crevasse is readily apparent and there is a very real danger of a fall that requires self-rescue. The Sack-drag in Blog 1 used no positive anchor system. The following techniques not only demonstrate anchors but also demonstrate the retrievability of all equipment once a solo crevasse crossing has been safely made.
I designed these systems many years ago so that they could be used either independently or in union with the Sack-drag system in Blog-1. As usual, all the equipment required is "alpine standard", though its use as depicted may be considered by some to be unorthodox.

Rope loop anchor system, using hip belt

As I have explained in many previous blogs, much of my overall soloing rope technique is based on "rope loop" systems. These are just simple variations on a retrievable protective system that I use on narrow, exposed ridgelines in poor conditions. Being essentially a very lazy solo climber, I try to develop very simple, multi-purpose rope work that requires as little thought and effort to execute and retrieve as possible.

Diagram of above system for wet glacier.

Even though I find wide hip-belts useful for this sort of thing, I can't stand the bloody things on any sack smaller than 60 litres. There just isn't any point. Big, bulky, restrictive, uncomfortable -- bring back the good old waist strap, I say!!
This system gives a good 25 - 30 metres (depending on rope length) to effect a crevasse crossing. The self-belay and arrester devices are a personal choice - I use either a reversed shunt on a dynamic rope sling, lark's-footed to my harness, or a dynamic sling "classic Prusik" around a doubled rope.

Feeding rope from rope-bag through the shunt. If at this point the climber should fall, the shunt will arrest the fall.

It is important to add that neither the shunt not the Prusik are made for shock-loading, but every system I devise is tested at our local climbing-wall at least 6 times at factor 2, and so far none have failed me.

Second option: Shunt is replaced by a Classic Prusik from a dynamic sling connected direct to harness.

Once the crossing has been safely made, the knot in the rope bag is undone and the rope is retrieved by a slow steady pull on the side connected to the sack. The inertia of the sack's weight easily dislodges and retrieves the entire anchor system. You then simply continue to steadily pull until the equipment arrives at your feet, and the remaining rope's end is pulled through the vacated anchor point.

It is critical that the retrieval be slow, firm and steady. Pulling quickly can cause the rope to "throw a knot", which can easily jam at the vacated anchor point.
One of the other options of an anchor uses multiple "Abalakovs" on hard, "dry glacier" ice. Note:The first option can also work on a hard ice bollard without a hip-belt addition.

The anchor system can only be as good as the compaction and quality of the ice it is constructed in. Make a thorough assessment, and test your anchors before trusting them to a fall.
I always liked the idea of a simple "ice core" drill on the end of an alpine axe instead of the usual spike. It's a very simple modification which would do both jobs and enable one to bore out good-diameter Abalakovs in hard dry-glacier ice. I suppose someone will think of it one day, and incorporate it into an axe-handle. Even the longest ice-screws are not really up to the task as Abalakov anchor-drills.

Good climbing,

Rob.

SOLO GLACIER CROSSING.(Risk reduction and self-rescue.)

Only once did i fall into a crevasse! It was on the Trift-Gletscher in 2003 high in the Berner Oberland.I never saw it coming,and fell into a hole up to my chest.I casually grumbled my way out then looked down into a blue/black abyss hundreds of feet deep.It was a wake-up call i have never forgotten,and it scared the crap out of me!
There,s loads of great crevasse rescue techniques on the internet for climbers,but if your alone and unprepared your a meat popsicle! The odds of an off-route solo-alpinist surviving crevasse falls are pretty slim,but can be massively increased by good planning,preparation,and a little ingenuity!?
But first,a quick word on Alpine Butterfly Knots for glacier crossings.As we know they can be a powerful,effective brake on Wet-Glacier falls.And allso a great aid for getting out quick if you havent broken anything vital,or are still conscious enough to use them?!
What the books "dont tell you",is how far apart the knots should be so you can reach them,whilst hanging over a bloody great drop into a giant icebox!?

Here is my simple formula(that all can use).Take the ropes-end to the centre of your chest and hold the rope at arms length.Start your first knot where the hand meets the wrist,then continue the process along the rope.Alpine-Butterflys are the preffered choice,but Overhands will suffice if your hands are too cold to tie the former.(Note:both of these knots can roll-out if not tied firmly.Make the loop at least"one hand span".)
Useing this formula,one can easily reach up to each succesive loop,to clip in an Etrier or Sling,even when your full body weight is suspended on the rope.If your rope is shoulder-coiled Alpine Style,make sure a Prusik is holding the "live" rope to your belay-loop.Or your coil may hinder arm movement and end up around your shoulders.
It doesnt nescessarily follow that every crevasse one may fall into is a bottomless-pit.Though it is very wise to plan as though it will be,and equip yourself accordingly before glacier crossings.(more on this later.)

The Swiss Alpine Club statistics on these falls suggest a mean average of 5 to 10metres for about 75% recorded.Not that this is of much help if your in the last 25% of course!? Furthermore the injury statistics are high and tend towards Arm and Upper-Body trauma,not encouraging stats for "Self Rescue"!It is not surprising therefore that the majourity of deaths occur through Hypothermia,even after rapid rescue.Even if you survive a solo crevasse fall fit and uninjured,the very shape of a crevasse can exclude any chance of Self-Rescue.(Read Joe Simpson-"Touching The Void",pages-95 to 100.In fact read the whole book!)

Heading for Jungfrau over "Jungfraufirn" a well trodden glacier region.

There are two types of glacier:Wet(snow covered) and Dry(Ice surfaced).Its the former thats the most hazardous as the snow cover obscures crevasses,on the dry they are more visible.Its a good idea even when climbing solo,to hitch onto a party or another soloist to make a crossing safer(no prizes for being stupid!),but this isnt allways possible.Or you can just follow a defined glacier path,there are many in the alps well marked with Marker-poles and Stakes.

SOLOIST RISK REDUCTION MEASURES:- If i have no other allternative than to effect a crossing alone i take the following measures. i first leave a Route-Plan and all nescessary documentation(As in Route Plans Blog & Solo Docs).I then rig two lightweight Etrier attached by slings to my harness,and stuff then down my jacket so i can reach them quickly.I place my Pack inside its own Drybag(heavy duty Liner) and tie it to the end of my climbing rope along which i have tied Alpine Butterfly Knots.The other end is figure-eight rewoven to my alpine harness.My helmet is allso worn!

My Tech-Axes are leashed to my Harness and holstered within easy reach,as are my Ice-Screws and Warthogs.I allways carry one Walking-Pole to use as a probe for unstable areas.
The Sack at the ropes-end acts as a counterweight(an artificial second)stretching out the knotted rope and making me 20kilos+ lighter for the crossing.If i should take a fall its weight "will not" arrest me,but may slow my fall and give the knots some friction to bite into the ice,perhaps bringing me to a halt.In any event,the system must slow my fall thus reducing the very real chance of fractures or other impact trauma!If the sack remains on the glacier surface and is not pulled into the crevasse,its bright yellow colour is highly visible to anyone in the area.On my 50metre rope i would have to fall at least 40metres before the sack is pulled down with me.
If the knots arrest my fall they might give me time to ice-screw my Etrier into the crevasse walls to anchor myself(though i could not trust them to hold an ascent attempt alone!)and then try to get out using my axes.

YES I KNOW!!! All this is one hell of a lot of "ifs and maybe,s",and the chances of it all working are very slim!? But its better than dying alone and broken,and being spat out 200years later at the end of the glacier like some i have heard of!? In mountaineering you cannot stop the inevitable,but you can be responsible and plan for the worst!

I am sorry that i dont have any pictures of my system in action on glaciers.I have never seen the need to photograph it!? In "Part-Two" of this blog i will put up some pics of the whole thing done on "Chalk",here in the UK.

Good climbing,

Rob.