if you have a brain in your head,you will allso have studied the geological strata,mineralisation,and weather conditions on your berg and accounts of previous ascentionists.But nothing quite prepares you for that feelling of angxiety and excitement at putting in your first self-belay anchor system!There is no partner,no second,no one to hold you if you fall!How you build your anchors suddenly requires a whole new dimension of precision and awareness that is by turns,liberating(when its right)and terrifying when it all goes wrong.After decades of climbing alone i thought i was pretty hot-stuff at placeing gear.Then i did an SPA trng course at PYB in Wales,Mark Richards was my instructor(most know him as "Baggy" though only a few know why?)back then.In his own quiet way he showed me how little i actually realy knew!If you seriously want to learn anchors,have Baggy teach you and check out his site!?Some of the worst systems ive seen have been put up by expierienced climbers.Dont be too proud!Go do a refresher course every few years and let someone else check your technique!Youle live longer!
Two opposing HMS-Krabs have been used to take the climbing rope in this setup,primarily to highlight the "tensioning shock-cord" that pulls the upper and lower anchors together at the centre.The shock-cord "is not" load-bearing!! If done well this holds the gear firmly in place in the event of a fall and prevents gear lift-out on ascent.
The "depicted" system i have deliberately over-engineered to demonstrate its primary principles.If nescessary one can get by with much less,but thats down to yourself,circumstances,and the efficient placement of "bombproof" anchor gear.
Both systems use only one climbing rope for ascents and abseils on an Edelrid-Eddy rigged for self belay.I find a second abseil rope to be just extra weight and surplus to my requirements.